Archduke Trio - 1997

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[ Archduke Trio from Wallace ]

The Archduke Trio from Wallace Peak
Photos by Cyril Shokoples

[ Ridegeline Photo ]

Typical Ridgeline
Photo by Cyril Shokoples

[ Past Peak 1 Photo ]

Past Peak 1
Photo by Cyril Shokoples

The Archduke Trio

This year the ACC General Mountaineering Camp was held at the toe of the Vowell Glacier between the Bugaboo and Vowell groups. The camp was below North Post Spire at an approximate elevation of 6,600 feet.

The photos in this essay are from the wildly exposed Archduke trio. The route is rated 5.7 and the exposure is rated as "fantastic". To complete the climb you simply traverse the three main summits. Along sections of the route you discover that you are on a blade that is only several meters wide at its base and knife edged along its top. The route is seldom done, although four parties from the Alpine Club GMC completed it in 1997. This is likely more traffic than it has seen since the first ascent! Bob Kruszyna, one of the members of the first ascent party was a participant and rope leader in the GMC this summer and I still marvel that they pulled this ascent off with the limited gear they had available at the time. A bold route indeed! Since the route is not in the main group of the Bugaboos, it is destined to see far less traffic than it deserves. The climber in the photos is Dave Cousins from Calgary. All photos were taken by Cyril Shokoples.

[ Peak 3 ridge Photo ]

From summit of Peak 3 along the Razors Edge
Photo by Cyril Shokoples

[ Base of Peak 3 Photo ]

Base of Peak 3
Photo by Cyril Shokoples

[ Final summit of Archduke Trio ]

View of the Trio from the South East
Photo by Cyril Shokoples

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Cyril Shokoples

Rescue Dynamics
Edmonton, AB, Canada T6L 1K5

Copyright © 1997 Cyril Shokoples
All rights reserved. Terms & Conditions apply.
Last updatedDecember 30, 1997